The Fall/Winter 2024 men’s collections were characterized by “new extravagance”

Soft curves, streamlined silhouettes and smooth fabrics: the Fall/Winter 2024 men’s collections were imbued with a new extravagance and classic ensembles were reinterpreted with a sense of elegance and performance.

There was Loewe, where creative director Jonathan Anderson took cues from Hollywood “iconography” and the “collaged reality” of social media, designing a collection with theatrical flourishes that included bows and pearls alongside the exuberant illustrations of Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins (“it’s about different kinds of validation…how we perceive ourselves from the outside world,” Anderson said at the time).

At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello presented casual, oversized cuts and outerwear reminiscent of 1980s silhouettes. “American gigolo.”“Flowy, with a deliberate sloppiness, the illusion that the fabric is becoming liquid,” said the designer. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana’s latest men’s collection was titled “Sleek”: a “story of elegance and craftsmanship… an essay on tailoring,” Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana described the mostly black collection that showcased their tailoring skills.

Taken here from the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper*Photographer Matthieu Delbreuve and fashion editor David St John James have highlighted a number of these menswear looks in a series called “Calm on Set.”

Model: Indy van Opstal at Ford Models Paris. Casting: Svea Casting. Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents with Sunday Riley and Sisley. Interior Design: Olly Mason. Photography Assistant: Kevin Ramos. Fashion Assistant: Olivia Meghan. Interior Design Assistant: Archie Thomson. Production Assistant: Minna Vauhkonen.